The History of the Peacoat
The History of the Peacoat
Before becoming a staple of naval uniforms, the peacoat is believed to have originated in the Maghreb, where Barbary pirates in the 15th century wore short capes called “qaba.” These capes were ideal for providing freedom of movement and protection against harsh weather—qualities that quickly appealed to European sailors.
From then on, the peacoat was designed to meet the needs of seafarers who required protection from wind and rain, and it perfectly fulfilled these demands. The double-breasted closure allowed for adjustable buttoning depending on wind direction, and the wide, upturned collar provided excellent coverage for the neck.
It wasn’t until the early 19th century that the peacoat became formally institutionalized in naval military uniforms. The Royal Navy adopted it in the 1800s, followed by the French Navy around the 1850s. From that point on, the peacoat symbolized prestige and military identity.
Origin of the Name
The origin of the name appears to be quite diverse. Some believe it derives from the Dutch word "Pijjekker," referring to a thick wool jacket. This term evolved into P-jacket, and later Pea-coat, in English. Other theories suggest Portuguese sailors named the coat after “Gabaö,” referencing the Gabon Estuary near Libreville, whose shape resembled the garment. The French term “Caban” is thought to stem from this Portuguese word.
Evolution of the Peacoat over the decades
Over the decades, the peacoat has evolved while preserving its essence. In the 1920s, it was reinterpreted by iconic figures such as Coco Chanel, who contributed to its popularity in women’s wardrobes. After World War I, as women took on greater economic roles, they adopted elements of menswear, including the peacoat.
In the 1960s, the famous designer Yves Saint Laurent revisited the peacoat, giving it a “fashion” connotation. It became a symbol of style, worn by artists, writers, and intellectuals. The peacoat transcended its original utility to become a true fashion statement, embraced by various generations and social classes.
The Peacoat Today : Tradition Meets Modernity
Today, the peacoat is a symbol of quality and artisanal craftsmanship. Many French brands, like SAINT JAMES, continue this tradition by offering locally made products with meticulous attention to detail and premium materials. The peacoat is no longer just associated with sailors—it is now considered a versatile piece, suitable for various occasions. Whether for a casual outing in the city or a more formal event, the peacoat fits any situation.
Contemporary designers constantly reinvent this garment, experimenting with textures, patterns, and cuts. As a result, the peacoat continues to captivate with its ability to adapt to trends while staying true to its roots.
